STUDI PENGARUH TETAL BENANG PAKAN DAN NOMOR BENANG PAKAN TERHADAP KARAKTERISTIK MUTU KEKUATAN SELIP JAHITAN KAIN DENIM KAPAS 100%
DOI:
https://doi.org/10.51878/cendekia.v5i2.4682Keywords:
nomor benang pakan, tetal benang pakan, kekuatan selip jahitanAbstract
The purpose of this study was to determine the type of weft yarn count and weft yarn density that can be used to make denim fabric with quality that meets SNI 0560:2008 standards in terms of its seam slip strength properties. The yarn materials used in this study were Open-end Ne 16 yarn as the warp and three types of weft yarn: Open-end Ne 9, Open-end Ne 11, and Open-end Ne 13 yarn as the weft yarn. There were three variations of weft yarn density used in this study: 46 ends per inch, 50 ends per inch, and 54 ends per inch. In this study, the Rapier Picanol machine was used at the AK-Tekstil Solo Weaving Workshop to make denim fabric with a 2/1 twill weave construction. The slip strength properties of each sample produced in this study were tested using the SNI 13936-1:2010 standard (Textiles - Test method for slip resistance of yarn in woven fabric seams - Part 1: Fixed seam opening method) at the AK-Textile Solo Fabric Evaluation Laboratory. The results of the slip strength test of each sample were evaluated and compared with the quality requirements for the slip strength of denim fabric according to SNI 0560:2008. In this study, it was found that all variations of denim fabric construction that had been made could meet the quality requirements for the slip strength of seams according to SNI 0560:2008. The results showed that the higher the weft yarn number in a denim fabric construction, the higher the slip strength of the denim fabric. The effect of weft yarn density on the slip strength of seams was also found in this study. The higher the weft yarn density in a denim fabric construction, the higher the slip strength of the seams obtained.
ABSTRAK
Tujuan penelitian ini adalah mengetahui jenis nomor benang pakan dan tetal benang pakan yang dapat digunakan untuk membuat kain denim dengan mutu yang memenuhi standar SNI 0560:2008 ditinjau dari sifat kekuatan selip jahitannya. Bahan benang yang digunakan pada penelitian ini yaitu benang Open-end Ne 16 sebagai lusi, serta tiga jenis benang Open-end Ne 9, Open-end Ne 11 dan Open-end Ne 13 sebagai benang pakan. Terdapat tiga variasi tetal benang pakan yang digunakan pada penelitian ini, yaitu 46 helai per inci, 50 helai per inci dan 54 helai per inci. Pada penelitian ini telah digunakan mesin Rapier Picanol di Workshop Pertenunan AK-Tekstil Solo untuk membuat kain denim dengan anyaman twill 2/1. Sifat kekuatan selip jahitan dari setiap sampel yang dihasilkan pada penelitian ini diuji dengan menggunakan standar SNI 13936-1:2010 (Tekstil – Cara uji ketahanan selip benang pada jahitan kain tenun – Bagian 1: Metoda bukaan jahitan tetap) di Laboratorium Evaluasi Kain AK-Tekstil Solo. Hasil uji kekuatan selip jahitan dari setiap sampel dievaluasi dan dibandingkan dengan syarat mutu kekuatan selip jahitan kain denim sesuai SNI 0560:2008. Pada penelitian ini telah ditemukan bahwa seluruh variasi konstruksi kain denim yang telah dibuat dapat memenuhi syarat mutu kekuatan selip jahitan sesuai dengan SNI 0560:2008. Hasil menunjukan bahwa semakin besar nomor benang pakan pada sebuah konstruksi kain denim, maka semakin besar kekuatan selip jahitan kain denim tersebut. Pengaruh tetal benang pakan terhadap kekuatan selip jahitan juga telah ditemukan pada penelitian ini. Semakin besar tetal benang pakan pada sebuah konstruksi kain denim, maka semakin besar pula kekuatan selip jahitan yang diperoleh.
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